Showing posts from 2011

Punto San Carlos, Baja, Mexico!!! Chasing a Scattered SW and NW Swell!

Things weren’t looking so hot for me going into the trip. I was very sick and had flu-like symptoms the night before departure of our long and very adventurous adventure. Because I was so sick I missed packed some pretty crucial things for living in the desert. San Carlos is 280 miles into Baja from the border, the last 40 miles being on a wash-board dirt road. You are literally in the middle of nowhere. There are ZERO amenities in San Carlos; no running water, no electricity, no stores, no people, NADA except for big waves and high winds! This means you have to bring everything. The main thing I forgot was my sweatshirt but Christopher being Christopher packed two of everything and had an extra, what a guy! It’s really hot during the day and pretty cold at night. Our dad flew into LA the day before we left to accompany us on the journey. It was Christopher and Pops in the Jeep and Brad, Ben, Matt, and Me in Brad’s little racecar. We packed the car the night before and left at 5am to …

Cairns Stop the Music!

The next morning we did two more hikes around Cairns before heading up to Port Douglas. On one of our hikes we found a natural waterslide down the face of a huge boulder with water running over it. The road to Port Douglas runs right along the ocean and the lookouts were awesome. Port Douglas in a really small town on a 4 mile stretch of pristine beach. We stopped at Trinity Beach to get some food and sampled about 10 different types of Aussie candy. With our tongues blue we continued the trek north to Port Dougy. We checked into an awesome hostel with free brekkie called the Parrotfish Lodge. Unlike the city of Cairns, Port Douglas is muy tranquilo. We booked out dives for the following day and called it an early night. We booked our dives in Port Douglas (recommendation from friend) and because the Great Barrier Reef runs right along the Continental Shelf.  The boat we were on was called the Super Sonic and it got us to the outer edge of the reef in just over an hour. We stopped at t…

INDObitably Outrageous

It’s been quite a run the past week with the crew. The other day Ben convinced us to take a break from surfing and go to Ubud for some sightseeing. It was a long drive but we took a pit stop at a Warung that had a bunch of people at it and scored the best meal to date in Bali. It was called Hana Warung and they served grilled Balinese food. We all got three entrees and the shrimp was insane! After our food stop we loaded up the car and headed for Ubud. 10 uturns later we finally found the Gao Gojah which means Elephant Temple. They made us wear sarongs because you have to cover your shoulders and knees. The temple was goliath and ancient.  When we were walking around this Indo guy came up to us and asked us to follow him. He took us down a secret little path to this raging river. He pointed across to these little cave entrances that you would never have seen without a guided eye. We did some rock hopping and skipping to get closer. After the furthest rock you had to jump in the raging …

Weekend Warriors!

What a crazy weekend here in Bali. We surfed huge surf during the day and spent our nights bouncing from discotech to discotech in Kuta. We just found out that a group of Norwegians live behind us who are going to school here in Bali. We met them in Kuta and found out that we live just one house apart. They have a sick setup where you can jump off their roof into the swimming pool, radical.
On both Saturday and Sunday I was rousted by Bali police. Each time they were trying to get me to pay outrageous fines on the spot for not have an international driver’s license (and one time for having Chris on the back without a helmet). My bargaining skills are top notch so both times I walked away paying just under 5 bucks. On Sunday, they put up a roadblock right before the Serangan surf spot to catch all the tourists, so lame. In Serangan we’ve been hanging out at Maria’s Surf Warung. Before we go out to surf we get food and drinks and when we come in from surf she makes us chocolate banana c…


Everybody arrived safe and sound. Colin missed his flight so he arrived a day late but all is good. Colin, Justin, and Ben rented a sweet little minivan for their duration which will be a nice addition to our fleet of motorbikes. For everybody’s first surf we went to Uluwatu. It was super mellow which was good a good warm-up as the waves have been huge ever since. A massive swell rolled in Wednesday and should be here for almost a week. On Thursday we rolled over to Balangan early Thursday to see if the break could hold this swell which is did nicely. Chris caught a little bug so he wasn’t feeling hot so Colin and I paddled out to see if we could catch some giants. We were both sitting on the inside as everybody was hanging out way on the outside so they wouldn’t get caught by the big outside sets. We both caught some huge waves and were having a grand ol’ time. After coming off one of my bigger rides in my surfing career I found myself in a bad spot next to a shallow reef shelf where…

The Boyz are Back in Town!

In a few hours, Christopher, Ben, and Justin arrive. Super stoked for them to get here so I can increase my wolf pack. The last couple days have been pretty mellow as the swell has been pretty fickle and I’ve been recovering from “Bali belly”. I only missed one day of surfing from it, but I haven’t been as gung-ho as usual as it saps your energy. I’ve been mainly surfing Uluwatu but each day it has been getting more and more crowded. We surfed Canggu and Serangan this weekend which was a nice change of pace. Canggu is north above the Bukit Peninsula and the sand is dark black. I didn’t have my camera but we went through some amazing rice patties that went as far as the eye could see. After surfing Canggu we found this little warung that made crepes. I ordered a few as I was starving and my favorite so far was the banana, coconut, peanut butter, and palm sugar combo.  On Saturday after missing Friday I surfed all over the island. I woke up early feeling better and went to Balangan and…

surf, eat… sleep!

The last three days we've continued the onslaught of hitting every surf spot on this island. So far my favorite spots of have been Balangan and Dreamland. Two days ago we woke up early and surfed Green Bols and because of the full-ish moon, the tide swings have been massive. You walk down hundreds of stone steps to get to the beach where you normally walk out to the break. It was full high tide and it was so high that we had to jump off the steps into the water. We all got pummeled as the surf was huge and pretty disorganized. I saw my buddy Nick try to duck dive under one of the outside cleaner sets and watched his body and board go over the falls. He snapped his leash and had to swim in through the chaos to get his board. He got to it right before it smashed into the rocks. At this point I was over it and just wanted to get in but the rips were gnarly and I was having a hard time getting to shore. Another outside set came and I did the same thing when trying to get under the wav…