half n half 
Everybody arrived safe and sound. Colin missed his flight so he arrived a day late but all is good. Colin, Justin, and Ben rented a sweet little minivan for their duration which will be a nice addition to our fleet of motorbikes. For everybody’s first surf we went to Uluwatu. It was super mellow which was good a good warm-up as the waves have been huge ever since. A massive swell rolled in Wednesday and should be here for almost a week. On Thursday we rolled over to Balangan early Thursday to see if the break could hold this swell which is did nicely. Chris caught a little bug so he wasn’t feeling hot so Colin and I paddled out to see if we could catch some giants. We were both sitting on the inside as everybody was hanging out way on the outside so they wouldn’t get caught by the big outside sets. We both caught some huge waves and were having a grand ol’ time. After coming off one of my bigger rides in my surfing career I found myself in a bad spot next to a shallow reef shelf where the waves closeout and end. By this time I was way down the beach so I figured I would just paddle in and walk up the beach and paddle back out. When I was trying to paddle in I put myself in the impact zone where the water was probably less than 3 feet deep. A big wave doubled up in front of me and I tried to go under it but my board clicked the bottom of the reef which means I was as deep as I could go and I got crunched. I held onto my board and got picked up over the falls onto the reef where I clipped the front of my board, then the back of my head, and lastly my back. Surprised and adrenaline pumping I paddled towards the beach as fast as possible before another wave dredged onto my head. I got hit by another but I got my feet out in front of me this time but I still managed to get a really thick gash in my foot when I landed on the reef. I got to shore and assessed the damage. My big toe had a really bad cut through it and my back looked like somebody took a cheese grater to it. I also broke off a little bit of the nose of my board. After the long walk of shame up the beach I got to Christopher who I gave the honor of squeezing limes into my cuts to sterilize them. Whew, it stung pretty badly!!! When I was cleaning out my toe which had sand packed into it a little local kid came up to me and pointed to the spot down the beach where I had my whole fiasco and said “laundry?” and moved his hands in a circle and started laughing. The little punk was making fun of me! I laughed and replied, “Yah, I went through the washing machine!”. 

Uluwatu sunset
Overall, it could have been much worse as I walked away with only some cuts and bruises. It was worth it as I caught some really fun rides. Even Colin managed to hit the reef on that session (he slipped on a rock when walking back on the beach - haha). After the session we all went and got Thai food to relax. To finish our hectic day we watched the sun go down while sipping on Bintangs on the cliffs of Uluwatu. Simply INDOsribable! (Chris’s pun)...

3 monkeys at Balangan!
Dreamland statue
being a delinquent


Popular posts from this blog

Hong Kong Gems!

Punto San Carlos, Baja, Mexico!!! Chasing a Scattered SW and NW Swell!

Super Swell Swells