Wednesday, April 20, 2011

surf, eat… sleep!

Surfing Dreamland

The last three days we've continued the onslaught of hitting every surf spot on this island. So far my favorite spots of have been Balangan and Dreamland. Two days ago we woke up early and surfed Green Bols and because of the full-ish moon, the tide swings have been massive. You walk down hundreds of stone steps to get to the beach where you normally walk out to the break. It was full high tide and it was so high that we had to jump off the steps into the water. We all got pummeled as the surf was huge and pretty disorganized. I saw my buddy Nick try to duck dive under one of the outside cleaner sets and watched his body and board go over the falls. He snapped his leash and had to swim in through the chaos to get his board. He got to it right before it smashed into the rocks.  At this point I was over it and just wanted to get in but the rips were gnarly and I was having a hard time getting to shore. Another outside set came and I did the same thing when trying to get under the wave but I held onto my board and didn’t break my least. I actually went over the falls twice during the fiasco and had probably the worst washing machine crash of my life. After that I went straight in and was happy to reach land! I went straight to Mak Jo for some cheap eats and headed to Balangan where I had a great session of glassy lefts. After Balangan I went to Dreamland for a late afternoon sunset session. After this I was so tired I thought I was going to go home and sleep but the boys had another plan. I didn't even make it home to put on dry boardies, instead we went straight to Kuta to party. We stayed out until 530am hopping from place to place. I left my bike in Kuta and had a Balinese guy on a scooter give me a ride back. Pretty hectic day!
cruising on the bikes! 
The Villa

another dreamland beauty!
this guy was eying us! 
Yesterday we had a pretty mellow day and surfed later in the afternoon at Dreamland. After surfing, we went to a Thai restaurant an chowed. For dessert I got mango sticky rice with coconut cream, definitely one of the tastiest things I've ever eaten. I'll be going there everyday to get it to go! After we went to the local DVD shop which has hundreds of DVDs in sleeves for only a dollar each. I don't know how legal it is, but they are in normal covers and are exact quality as the ones you would buy in a store at home.

In a few days we are going to move out of the villa and move camp to Balangan where the hostels and restaurants are right on the beach. We would never have to leave! After a few days in Balangan and when Chris, Ben, Colin, and Justin get here we are going to go to Nusa Lembongan. Lembongan is a small island just south of the main island. Cars aren’t allowed here so it should be muy tranquilo! There is some of the best surfing in the world here usually only accessed by private surf charters. I’m stoked to go check it out! 

No comments:

Post a Comment