Showing posts from April, 2011


Everybody arrived safe and sound. Colin missed his flight so he arrived a day late but all is good. Colin, Justin, and Ben rented a sweet little minivan for their duration which will be a nice addition to our fleet of motorbikes. For everybody’s first surf we went to Uluwatu. It was super mellow which was good a good warm-up as the waves have been huge ever since. A massive swell rolled in Wednesday and should be here for almost a week. On Thursday we rolled over to Balangan early Thursday to see if the break could hold this swell which is did nicely. Chris caught a little bug so he wasn’t feeling hot so Colin and I paddled out to see if we could catch some giants. We were both sitting on the inside as everybody was hanging out way on the outside so they wouldn’t get caught by the big outside sets. We both caught some huge waves and were having a grand ol’ time. After coming off one of my bigger rides in my surfing career I found myself in a bad spot next to a shallow reef shelf where…

The Boyz are Back in Town!

In a few hours, Christopher, Ben, and Justin arrive. Super stoked for them to get here so I can increase my wolf pack. The last couple days have been pretty mellow as the swell has been pretty fickle and I’ve been recovering from “Bali belly”. I only missed one day of surfing from it, but I haven’t been as gung-ho as usual as it saps your energy. I’ve been mainly surfing Uluwatu but each day it has been getting more and more crowded. We surfed Canggu and Serangan this weekend which was a nice change of pace. Canggu is north above the Bukit Peninsula and the sand is dark black. I didn’t have my camera but we went through some amazing rice patties that went as far as the eye could see. After surfing Canggu we found this little warung that made crepes. I ordered a few as I was starving and my favorite so far was the banana, coconut, peanut butter, and palm sugar combo.  On Saturday after missing Friday I surfed all over the island. I woke up early feeling better and went to Balangan and…

surf, eat… sleep!

The last three days we've continued the onslaught of hitting every surf spot on this island. So far my favorite spots of have been Balangan and Dreamland. Two days ago we woke up early and surfed Green Bols and because of the full-ish moon, the tide swings have been massive. You walk down hundreds of stone steps to get to the beach where you normally walk out to the break. It was full high tide and it was so high that we had to jump off the steps into the water. We all got pummeled as the surf was huge and pretty disorganized. I saw my buddy Nick try to duck dive under one of the outside cleaner sets and watched his body and board go over the falls. He snapped his leash and had to swim in through the chaos to get his board. He got to it right before it smashed into the rocks. At this point I was over it and just wanted to get in but the rips were gnarly and I was having a hard time getting to shore. Another outside set came and I did the same thing when trying to get under the wav…

The Bali Madness Continues!

Another crazy day in Bali! We woke up just after 5am to beat the crowds. We headed straight for Uluwatu. The first half of the ride was in complete darkness and it even started to rain a little. We got there at first light and were on the outside as the sun started to rise. There were only a few of us out there and we all scored some really potent rides. After about 2 hours the crowds started showing up so we decided to move to the next spot. The swim back in was pretty tricky as you have to swim though a little cave and the currents are really strong. I almost missed the opening which would have been really because it pins you on the inside next to the cliffs. On our way back we stopped at our favorite restaurant Mak Jo but it was too early and they weren’t open. GUESS WHAT! McDonalds is open 24/7 with free delivery in Bali! Bali mackers didn’t disappoint at all!

We then headed all the way to the north end of Bali to check out Chris’s favorite secret gem. It was about an 50 minute rid…


These first 24hrs in Bali have been insanity. It all started yesterday when I went to the train station in Surfers Paradise headed for the airport. I saw this guy (Nathan) with a board bag so I asked him where he was going and turns out he was going to Bali, on the same flight. His two buddies, Chris-O and Nick-O showed up who have both spent time in Bali and are die-hard surfers.  They invited me to cruise with them on their trip so I was happy to have met people who knew the place. I’ve never been on such a cool flight. Everybody in the terminal had board bags and sunnies and you could feel the “stoke factor” on the airplane.  As soon as we landed (around 10pm) last night we took a van to the nearest city, Kuta. It’s the Las Vegas of Bali. Multi-level club after club playing loud bumping jams 24/7. Chris-O knew where to stay and it had a huge pool and nice amenities and was directly downtown. We didn’t waste any time and headed for the party scene. Nathan needed to get local money a…

Bali Here We Come!

I haven't updated this in awhile as I've been in the groove of getting my school work done before I leave tomorrow to Bali. I have 5 papers to turn in before I leave and I've done 4 of them thus far! Yesterday me the the boyz went shopping and I picked up a new GoPro mount for my board, reef booties, rash guard, and crazy OZ sun-paste! Around two weeks ago while surfing in Byron I had a bad wipe-out and landed right on the camera, snapping off the plate (little safety lease and pad saved my GoPro from sinking to the bottom of the ocean. Also, last week I was able to go kiting right in front of my place. It was pretty surreal looking at the skyline as I cruised back and forth. I was the only kiter out which made things a little hairy but all went well. I'm going to keep this short as I need to get back to my work before I depart in the morning. Chris will meet me in Bali in about 8 days and two of mt new friends from Surfers will also be meeting me there later in the tr…